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©2016-2019

Ben Pechey

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Fashion Month AW19

March 8, 2019

 

Welcome back to new month. Today I am going to be rounding up the AW2019/20 shows that have taken place over the last month. The gap between September and February and the shows in between always makes this season come round quicker.

 

Of course, this season was rather overshadowed by the sad death of Karl Lagerfeld. No matter what you thought of his personal opinions and politics, you cannot deny his talent and legacy. The fashion world will be a very different place without his input. This made both the Fendi and Chanel shows incredibly poignant as they were presented after Lagerfeld’s death and will be his last designs. 

 

Back to today, and I have stuck to the usual main weeks, but have also added in Copenhagen Fashion Week, as the labels showing there are incredible and need to be held in the same regard as New York, London, Milan and Paris. With highlights from Ganni and by Malene Birger. 

 

So without further ado, let us dive into all the clothes from all the shows. New fashion awaits. 

 

 

 

Copenhagen Fashion week is the epitome of Scandi-Chic, I mean they should know how to do this the best! Home to labels like Ganni who have a cult following, and will be coming to London very soon

 

Munthe

 

I loved the laid back casual streetwear vibes that Munthe presented. Accents from logo-laden fabrics, cord and patent leathers. 

 

 

 

Martin Asbjørn

 

This menswear was undeniably sexy. I loved the use of leather, in rich orange mock-adile. Also, I think everyone needs a pair of leather dungarees. 

 

 

 

Holzweiler

 

This was a knitted sensation. A celebration of wool if you like. I loved the layering and warm cosy aesthetic that Holzweiler showed this season. 

 

 

 

Hoffman Copenhagen 

 

Hoffman presented a beautifully tailored and laid back collection. This was a beautifully smart yet wearable collection. This was complemented by a sublime colour palette. 

 

 

 

Ganni

 

I am a Ganni mega fan, so I knew they would always be in my round-up. This season they have moved away from the western trends they set last season. This collection was harder and edgier- and I loved it. 

 

 

 

by Malene Birger 

 

I really enjoy by Malene Birger, I think of it like Victoria Beckham with a Scandi twist. These are feminine clothes people really want to wear. I loved the colour pallet and the use of textures. 

 

 

 

 

 

New York is the hub of wearable fashion. There is a practicality to these shows, that means it is home to established brands. Don’t however, assume that this week is devoid from style, far from it. New York always delivers... 

 

Tom Ford

 

Kicking off New York in a blaze of glory, Tom Ford did what Tom Ford does best- sexy. I loved the use of leather, silks and heavy rich colours. Another stellar season for Tom Ford. 

 

 

 

Rodarte

 

 

Seeming to continue the momentum from last season, Rodarte showed a field of beauty. Teen queens rejoice as this had a fun prom like feel. I mean, who doesn’t love a good FROCK.

 

 

 

Brandon Maxwell

 

The way Maxwell designs really pleases me at the moment. I adore the huge skirts paired with minimal tops. The zingy bolts of colour, especially green, it always gets my attention. 

 

 

 

Seis Marjan

 

I really wasn’t a fan of last season for Seis Marjan, so I am so pleased that Sander Lak is back at his best. This was a divine collection with strong silhouettes and healthy use of bold colour. 

 

 

 

Oscar de la Renta 

 

I actually don’t like this entire collection, but I adored this section. This was a divine use of print and colour. I feel like the direction at ODLR is really strong coming into AW19/20.

 

 

 

Marc Jacobs 

 

 

This show was really really really good. Jacobs doing what Jacobs does best - putting on a good show. The clothes were 80s inspired and BOLD. As always this was a masterful example of experience, demonstrated through bold design. I adored this show, and it was a great way to end NYFW. 

 

 

 

 

 

London is MY FASHION WEEK, and I adore, whilst I sit here in my pyjamas typing, that I can say I was there. I have covered the London shows for the last 5 seasons, and I am always blown away by the TALENT that London has to offer. 

 

Toga Archives

 

This was a great show from the Japanese label. Set in a leisure centre, the looks floated past with a faint whiff of chlorine. I adored the feathers, bold colours and a real sense of joy. Also a titbit from the front row, the squishy trainer/boots made a delightful pfft noise as they walked past!! 

 

 

 

Mary Katrantzou

 

I am a huge Katrantzou fan, and this must be one of her most confident seasons to date. I adored the feathers, giving me car-wash couture. This was a really really good season.

 

 

 

Victoria Beckham 

 

By now you know that I am a mega Beckham fan. I love the way Vicky designs, super wearable, super stylish and super fun. I loved the BOOTS and jackets. Oh and the colours were amazing. 

 

 

 

JW Anderson 

 

This was a really bold and joyous collection from JWA. Obviously, feathers are here to stay, and I’m so happy about that. Although just FYI there is no such thing as a fake feather- thank you to Elizabeth for letting me know that fact. Also, can we talk about how good these hats were?

 

 

 

Shrimps

 

Moving away from the presentations of before and having a show this season, Shrimps really excelled. I adored the capes and the jumbo beaded bags. This was a great development of the brand, but whilst sticking to the staples that we all know and love Shrimps for.

 

 

Richard Quinn

 

This was a knockout collection for Quinn. Whilst last season was very good, this completely wowed me. I loved the blue florals mixed with the polka dots and the shiny vinyl. Look after look after look, I adored this collection. 

 

 

 

 

 

Milan can mean only one thing, MEGA BRAND TIME. I love Italian fashion for its confidence, heritage and excellence. I feel like my head is turned so much by the bigger brands, that I must miss out on so many smaller brands. Next season, I will really delve into this week to see some smaller up and coming designers. However, this time it is all about big brands. 

 

Gucci

 

Michele reworked the codes he has worked so hard to establish for the house of Gucci. Whilst for some this may seem repetitive, I adore what Gucci represents; creative freedom. Another brilliant season for Gucci.

 

 

 

Fendi

 

This was a sad moment as it was the last collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld. Even more so as it was such a joyous collection fuelled with some really lovely colour combinations. The silhouettes were really very good and would suit so many. The next chapter for Fendi will be very different without Lagerfeld. 

 

 

 

MaxMara

 

I’m sorry but I haven’t seen a show where I have wanted to wear so much for a long long time. The cardigan and jacket combos were out of this world, and I am going to need to a credit card, but by hook or by crook I will get myself a slice of this MaxMara show.

 

 

 

Salvatore Ferragamo

 

Salvatore Ferragamo’s new direction is something that a season on, I am still very much enjoying. This was a great display of style and colour combined. 

 

 

 

Marni

 

Red and black will always be a winner for me. Paired with bold prints, leather and some great coats and I am sold. I am a huge fan of all things Marni, and this show was no exception. 

 

 

 

Versace

 

Donatella did what she does best, and this really was some of her best work. This was a modern retro festival of joy. The prints the colours and the shapes. I am going to need all those coats for my collection because they were divine. 

 

 

 

 

 

The last leg of the fashion month, with most of the Fashion Press exhausted from endless shows. The French shows seem to put on mega collections to grab the attention of the flagging press. In reality, the shows are just really really good. I love the brands that have decades of style, and this is a great way to end out the season. 

 

Jacquemus 

 

This was such a bold and bright way to quick of Paris, with sensual shapes and amazing colours. The bags have got even tinnier - with room for just one cocktail sausage. I don’t know how practical this bag would be, but I still want one Mum, and you can’t stop me! 

 

 

 

YSL 

 

The 80s are trending for sure at the moment. No more so than at YSL, whatever party these dresses are headed to, I want to be there !! Seriously I adored this collection - there was even a weird neon section and menswear - what more could you want. 

 

 

 

Pacco Rabanne 

 

Now I must admit that I haven’t always paid much attention to Pacco Rabanne. I guess the smell of Lady 1 Million is far from the divine collection we saw. The mix of prints, materials and styling made this a mega collection. I think I really need sparky trousers for every day. 

 

 

 

Valentino

 

Continuing the momentum of an exquisite Couture collection in January, Pierpaolo Piccioli seems to be unstoppable. This was a divine display of pure talent and visual direction. Valentino has really flourished in these past years, and in my opinion, this is all down to Piccioli. I loved the hats, the almost fluid shapes. HEAVEN.

 

 

 

Givenchy 

 

I am a huge fan of Clare Waight Keller’s work at Givenchy. Changing the house’s direction and being faithful to the history of the house is a hard challenge, but one that CWK does with aplomb. This collection was awash with really really great clothes. I adored the shapes and the colours. Another great season for CWK. 

 

 

 

Chanel 

 

Chanel is always my personal highlight of the whole month. This show was made incredibly moving and poignant by the fact that this was Karl Lagerfeld’s last collection.  Presented just 3 weeks after his death, the show notes proclaimed that the beat must go on. 

 

 

This, of course, is referring to Lagerfeld’s lifetime contract, and complete hatred for all things sentimental. Thus the show did indeed go on. As always it was a masterful blend of the house codes and fresh modern wearability. No one will ever have such an impact on the fashion landscape as Lagerfeld. He will be greatly missed, and this final collection was a perfect sendoff. 

 

 

 

Just like that, fashion month is over. This season, I have been reminded of the importance of fashion and its creators. The industry makes fantasies that make our everyday lives more bearable. We need fashion more than ever to make this cruel world just a little bit more beautiful. 

 

I am happy to be part of an industry that makes people smile, gives them things to think about, and creates discussion. I adore fashion, clothes and accessories, and the role it has in our lives. 

 

Thank you so much for joining me today for your new season fashion round up. I will see you all very soon. 

 

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